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Some information will be out of date.  Some of this writing goes back to 1995.
See Tiki Road Trip (2007 edition) for the most up-to-date information.

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Trader Vic's
Emeryville, CA
.
Trader Vic's
San Francisco, CA

Full review and history of Trader Vic's
is available in Tiki Road Trip

January, 2005:

This is a good time for a major reappraisal of Trader Vic's American restaurants. New restaurants are opening as we speak (San Francisco is open, several more are planned), they have begun to embrace their Tiki heritage (rather than the yacht club pennants and lithos of galleons that dominated the 1980s), and they have adapted a welcoming attitude towards the aloha shirt crowd (as long as we bahave!). The importance of the Trader Vic's legacy in the Polynesian Pop pantheon can't be understated, and the fact that Trader Vic's is still not only existing but thriving - so long after the Don The Beachcomber, Kon Tiki Ports, and Kona Kai franchises have all gone the way of the dodo - is tesament to the integrity of Victor Bergeron's vision, and his passion for taking good care of his customers. I cannot deny that during the 1980s and 1990s my Tiki loving bretheren and I were treated aloofly (at best) by the management of most of the Trader Vic's locations, but in the same breath let me state that this attitude has been reversed completely.  It is immensely pleasing to see Trader Vic's management begin to recognize the efforts of people like Sven Kirsten, Otto Von Stroheim, myself, and the Tiki Central staff in keeping the Trader Vic's legacy alive, and to make the Tiki community feel most welcome in these temples of the Tiki that we hold so sacred. New managers in the Chicago and Atlanta locations have sought out members of the growing Tiki community to conduct monthly events in their restaurants, and the staff in Emeryville and the new San Francisco location could not be more accomodating. Until the San Francisco Trader Vic's opened in November of 2004, the Emeryville location was the flagship store.  Consisting of at least five dining rooms set against a spectacular view of the bay, Trader Vic's Emeryville is also packed to the gills with Tikis of all description and original art works dating (in some cases) all the way back to the 1940s Visitors to the Bay Area will want to plan an evening away from San Francisco proper, cross the bay bridge, and prepare for an amazing Tiki experience, an amazing dining experience, and the best Tropical Drinks anywhere. The Trader Vic's experience begins when a mandatory (but free) valet drives your car away, leaving you to contemplate a cluster of large Tiki Gods on a little tropical island located in the middle of the circular driveway.  These are of a grey colored wood, and done in a traditional Hawaiian style.  The entranceway features a big sign with a Victor Bergeron quote, and the first of many, many original works of art that can be found throughout the restaurant.

Inside and to the left is a lounge area and the bar.  Straight ahead and down a short hallway are the main dining rooms (and the pair of huge antique Chinese ovens in which all of the food is prepared).  Beyond that are the Captain’s Cabin and Deck (a private dining room) and an outdoor dockside bar.  To the right, is The Captain Cook Room, a larger banquet/conference style room with an incredible mural on the far wall. To the right of the mural is a glass case running the length of the wall with all kinds of paintings, wood carvings, fishing nets, and a giant sea turtle. This room is often closed to the public, but do make an effort to see it.

In the main dining and bar areas, there is also plenty to see, and every turn brings new surprises to the Polynesian Pop aficionado, to lovers of art, and to junior anthropologists.  Look for a big black snaggle toothed Tiki God in the hallway, a trio of huge anatomically correct “light bulb head” Tikis throughout the restaurant (these are Marquesian), and several Maori artifacts.  Oceanic artifacts are everywhere (from New Caledonian masks to Hawaiian temple images to New Guinea shields and wall ornaments), along with glass floats in nets, Orchids of Hawaii lamps, carved wooden fish, a walrus skull, stuffed marlins, and a diving helmet.  Exposed beams in the high ceiling allow plenty of space for all the various items which are on display and give the dining room a spacious feel.

Art fans will appreciate the plethora of original works scattered throughout the building.  A gorgeous black velvet painting of a Tahitian wahine hangs on the side of the bar near the hostess area.  This can be seen on page 44 of the book Leeteg of Tahiti.  There is an original Leeteg in the dining room farthest from the front.  You will have to work to find it; it is in the left hand corner near a mirrored section of the wall. In addition to the Leeteg, one can view the original art used on vintage Vic’s menus, and a dozen other works in various mediums.   How many other Tiki Bars have so much art on their hands that they can afford to hang a gorgeous original charcoal of a Tahitian maiden relegated to the men’s room?  Making things even, look for the awesome Zombie charcoal in the ladies’ room.  Speaking of this less than exiting part of the establishment, said men’s room is wallpapered in real tapa cloth.  A sea turtle above the bar is painted with a dedication to ‘our boys’ lost in war, and a list of Hawaiian names.

 It can be argued that other Tiki Bars also have huge collections of artifacts on display, but the difference is that with the possible exception of the Mai Kai (Ft. Lauderdale), few of them have authentic  artifacts or original artwork on display; these other places all have (often terrific) fakes made by Oceanic Arts (or some such other company).  Make sure you take a tour before you start drinking!

The food is great.  Bill Taw (the dining room Captain) and Hoy (a Vic’s waiter for decades), are extremely attentive and can be counted on to accommodate all of your needs.  Hoy left Dai-Tune (a small village near Canton) in 1951 and has been at Vic’s ever since. Too cool.

 The Norwegian Salmon is really good.  Cooked in the aforementioned Chinese ovens, it is moist and delicate and retains it’s flavor well.  It is served with mashed potatoes and asparagus.  The grilled seafood platter is very good too.  Consisting of salmon, sea bass, and prawns, it is served on spinach with a seafood sauce.  The Singapore Noodle is also a favorite; thin noodles with a nice flavor.  Ask for chopsticks!

 And now the moment you’ve been waiting for, dear lushes.  Drinks ahoy!

 The bar itself has about a dozen seats, and there are plenty of tables scattered around the lounge area.  A small, quiet, and talented jazz combo began providing evening entertainment in 2002.  They do have a television in the bar, but at least the TV at TV’s is located in a corner where you can't even see it from most of the lounge.

That hurdle overcome, a Mai Tai to end all Mai Tais is the only order possible.  Trader Vic's Mai Tai is nearly $10, but worth every sheckle.  It comes in a glass silk screened with Trader Vic’s artwork. It is prepared with lots of crushed ice, various rums, lime juice, and Trader Vic's Mai Tai mix. The ingredients are shaken and then poured into the glass. It is topped with a mint sprig, a swizzle stick skewering a pineapple and cherry, and the leftover lime rind.  Due to the plethora of ice, the drink is very, very cold.  If that doesn’t convince you, let us once again remind you that you will be drinking it, more or less, in the place where the king of all Tropical Drinks was invented.

 But here’s the kicker - ask for a "San Francisco" Mai Tai (or a Mai Tai made “the old way”).  Vic’s excellent and very talented bartenders will conjure up a drink suitable for Makemake himself.  Made from Victor Bergeron’s original recipe, it contains no prefab mix; it is all fresh and mixed from scratch.  Containing Appleton and St. James Rum with a topper of Demerarra it is one serious drink!  Fruity, refreshing complex, and strong - everything a truly awesome cocktail should be!

 We would be remiss in failing to mention the rest of the extensive drink menu. This thing has to be seen to be believed.  The drinks are pricey, but you'll very rarely see such an exhaustive array of quality Tropical Drinks.  There are also monthly specials, often in souvenir glasses.  The Scorpion comes in the traditional bowl-shaped goblet with a real gardenia floating in it.  It is tasty and strong.  The real flower adds some class.  The Zombie comes in a tall, thin glass.  Red in color, it is garnished with the standard pineapple/cherry/mint combo.  Worth a try.  Planter’s Punch is a darker red, garnished as above.  In the words of artist Rene J. Cigler: “It’s a little carnival on your tongue!”.  Kamaaina comes in a coconut-shaped mug that you can keep.  Garnished with a mint leaf, it has a flavor in keeping with it’s container.  The Samoan Fog Cutter comes in a tall, vase-shaped mug with Polynesian village scenes on it.   Refreshing.  The description of Trader Vic’s Grog on the menu claims that it is served in a “Manly Mug”.  In reality, it is served in a tall and curvy 1980’s-looking girlie glass with a black base.  An orange drink garnished  with a cherry, it is strong and delicious.  But not necessarily manly.

 Keep in mind that Trader Vic’s is more of a restaurant than a night spot, so it closes rather early.  Go there now.  

 

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Mike Remmel adds:

I've hit Trader Vic's a few times over the last few weeks and it's awesome. They do have a tv, but it's off in a corner where you can't even see it from most of the lounge seating- and there is no sound on either. It's such an upscale place with the valet parking, all the great building architecture, the very large tikis everywhere, from outside to the lounge to the dinning room. Through large glass windows you can watch chefs work the huge dutch oven and see the fire underneath. There is even a back deck with bar that overlooks the bay.  

Lots of great artwork is on every wall, but the most impressive room is tucked away behind the kitchen entrance. It is the Captain's Room- a large banquet/conference style room with an incredible mural on the far wall. To the right of that is a glass case running the length of the wall with all kinds of paintings, wood carvings, fishing nets, and other Hawaiian decor, including a giant sea turtle. If you go there you've got

to see this room!   All their drinks are excellent, but the Mai Tai really is top notch!
 
 Photos seen among Mike Remmel's comments are by Mike Remmel

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Trader Vic's
555 Golden Gate Avenue
San Francisco, California

November, 2004:

Visitors to San Francisco must visit the corner of Taylor and Post streets, where they will find not one, but two holy relics of mid-century Tiki style.  The first, and the more visible of the two relics, is the Tiki Bob statue still firmly entrenched outside of a vacant storefront.  Aside from a highly collectible Tiki Mug, however, Tiki Bob's legacy is but a footnote in the history of Polynesian Pop.  Less dramatic than the Tiki Bob statue, but far more signifigant, is a sign near alleyway half a block away, marking the honorary "Trader Vic Alley".  It was on Cosmo Place, at the end of this small throughway, that Victor Bergeron opened his second Trader Vic's restaurant (the first was across the bay in Oakland). Since the demise of the Cosmo Place location in the early 1990s, Bay Area visitors thirsty for a mai tai had to go across the bay to Trader Vic's Emeryville location, which took over from San Francisco as the chain's flagship store. Until recently. The first week of November was a happy occasion for the Tiki community, and also for the many Bay Area residents who remember the San Francisco Trader Vic's location with the great fondness it deserves.  The reason?  A brand spankin' new Trader Vic's is now open in the heart of the city, near the Opera House, Symphony Hall, City Hall, and the new Asian Art Museum.  The new location makes San Francisco once again the flagship of the Trader Vic's empire. I have always been fond of the labyrinthine feel of the Trader Vic's in Chicago, Atlanta, and London.  I like the low ceilings in these locations, and the chain of smallish rooms festooned with Oceanic carvings and art.  The San Francisco location is a departure from these designs, taking it's architectural cues from designer Lun Chan's modern sensibility in restaurant design, with a large room, high ceiling, and no division between the restaurant and bar areas.  Even the kitchen is visible to diners - bistro style - giving the whole place a wide-open and rather busy feeling to it.  Chan is also responsible for the original San Francisco Trader Vic's, as well as the restaurants in Tokyo and Osaka. All of this said, it is still Trader Vic's all the way, so of course, Tikis abound.  A handful of huge specimens (we're talking 8 to 16-footers) loom over the guests.  These monster carvings were apparently rescued from previously closed Trader Vic's locations.  Thank Tongaroa for whomever had the foresight to warehouse the decor when the Dallas, Portland, Vancouver, Washington DC (etc) stores closed down!  Repeat after me: "vintage stuff is good".  Even more striking is a massive wall covered in real tapa cloth and large, carved masks in a New Guinea style.  The requiste outrigger hanging from the ceiling is present as well, but leave it to Trader Vic's to do things properly: this canoe dates from approximately 1932, and is 32 feet long.  This canoe is in turn surrounded by floats and lamps. A grotto-type area near the back features a huge lava rock wall, decorated with clamshell planters at various heights containing real orchids. Speaking of tall walls, the wall o' hootch behind the bar is astounding.  You'll want to sit at the right end of the long bar so as to ogle at the top-notch selection of rums on display. Several other rooms branch off from the main dining area.

The Queen Kapiolani room in in the back of the building, and up a few stairs.  The 19th century Victorian look of the room may turn Tikiphiles away at first glance (pink velvet wallpaper), but keep in mind that the room was designed as an accurate recreation of a room in the Iolani Palace in Hawaii.  Having distinction as the only palace in the United States, the Iolani was where Queen Kapiolani (second-last queen of Hawaii) and her husband King David Kalakaua met with mainland dignitaries.

There is also a Captain's Room with the nautical theme seen in some of the other more modern Trader Vic's venues.

A small private room just to the left of the entrance contains a single large table, dark wood walls, and lots of framed vintage historical pictures of Trader Vic's.

Finally, a Cuban-themed room is a little more modern in appearance, and sports a huge etched-glass map of Cuba (possibly rescued from the old Havana Trader Vic's?).

You know, I haven't mentioned the food, the drinks, or the service yet.

Do I have to?

I have never had a substandard meal or a substandard cocktail at any Trader Vic's, anywhere in the world.

San Francisco is no exception.

Their bar staff includes some all-stars from Emeryville (Beth, Jim), and even some old mixologists brought back into the fold (welcome back Sonja!).  They've even resurrected a few drinks that had been retired at some point is the past.  Perhaps the most noteworthy of these is Doctor Funk's Son, which is served in a pint-glass pre-embedded into a volcano-shaped cone of solid ice.  Garnished with half of a lime, mint sprig, and a skewered pineapple/cherry.  The contents of the red drink are, of course, a secret.  It's good for what ails you.

The past few years have seen Trader Vic's do an about-face in their American operations.  New restaurants are opening, they have begun to embrace their Tiki heritage, and they have adapted a welcoming attitude towards the aloha shirt crowd (so long as we behave!). 

This is a great time to visit your nearest Trader Vic's.