Star Wars Celebration - April 30-May 2, 1999
...and the road trip home that almost killed me three different ways!

Click me to skip the tale of trip  TO  Denver  FROM  Chicago
and get right to the STAR WARS Action!

Click me to get right to the harrowing tale of THE TRIP HOME!


WEDNESDAY, April 28, 1999

...and then I decided to drive to Denver, rather than fly.  I figured I’d make a little road trip out of my decision to check out the big Star Wars fan convention in Denver.  I found people to share driving and hotel expenses (artist Matt Busch and his dad Fred, plus Seattle resident Ginger Dzerk), made sure I wasn’t booked for any gigs that week, and hit the road.  Normally, I would have rented a car for such a long trip so as not to put undue wear on the Mobile Exploration Lab (my 1994 Nissan hooptie), and so as to have some assurance of mechanical reliability.  But financial matters dictated that the $300 it would have cost me to rent a car for the week were better spent elsewhere.  So I decided to hit the road in the Lab.

Now let me say right away that I had a good time.
But you wouldn’t know it from what you are about to read...

One of the main reasons I was able to justify the trip was so that I could promote the Star Wars magazine I co-publish, Blue Harvest.  But, dealers tables at the con were $500, and there was no way I could justify that expense.  A friend had said that I could put some BH issues on the corner of his table, so with that sorted out, I was in business.  I loaded up the car with two big boxes of Blue Harvest back issues, and 1000 copies of a special 4-page preview issue I put together just for the Denver trip. It was a nice day, on Wednesday, April 28, and it was the last nice day I’d encounter for over a week.

I made my way slowly west on I-55, stopping at tons of antique malls and thrift stores in search of Star Wars items, Tikis, weird art, or anything else that struck my fancy.  It was an enjoyable and fun day.  I made it as far as Omaha, where I checked out a Tiki Bar my friend Dave had told me about.

Anyway, the place was a dump, but I killed some time talking to a redneck girl named Mindy.  She drunkenly scribbled directions to some other bars on an ATM receipt, while telling me how her ambition in life was to open a head shop.  I drove around Omaha, looking for these other bars, and I finally arrived at an Irish pub that wasn’t even on the Mindy Document.  The bartender was named Peggy.  After a pint, she gave me directions to another bar, where I found Mindy and her friends again. Omaha is indeed a small town.  The girls were pretty young, 22 or so, but talking to them in the Tiki Bar, I didn’t really notice.  At this new place, however, they had been joined by three guys of the same age, but who seemed like kids to me,  Really, really young.  Realizing that talking to them was like teaching Kindergarten, I went back to the pub, where Peggy and her waitress got us sloshed.  They wouldn’t stop giving us free shots!

I had no where to crash that night, so Peggy let me use her couch.  Never let it be said that Nebraskans aren' hospitable.

THURSDAY

I arrived in Lincoln, Nebraska  to pick up Ginger, my co-pilot for the second half of the drive.  I made good time, even after stopping at several more (say this with me) thrift stores and antique malls. 

The day was grey and drizzly, but we had some fun on the drive.  The best adventure we had was pulling off the road to hit an antique mall and to buy some serious junk food to kill my hang over.  We saw a sign pointing the way to a collectibles store that was going out of business.  We stopped in, and this guy who looked like Dennis Hopper (and spoke like him too) was trying to sell us bad lawn ornaments, cheap rugs, lame black velvet paintings, and ugly jewelry.  He was liquidating all of his stock.  It was all marked at 1/2 price, and he said he’d go lower than that.  I tried on a pair of black leather jeans, the first pair I’d considered owning in about 10 years (but hey - they’re ‘back’), and the cheap plastic zipper crumbled into 100 pieces in my hand.  That plan a bust, there was nothing else we wanted in the whole place, so we hit the road with burritos and milkshakes from two different drive-thrus.  The girl at the second drive-through was about 28 and gorgeous.  Between her age and her looks, we couldn’t figure out what she was doing working at a fast food restaurant.

We made Denver at about 7:30, the rain now coming down in buckets.  If the Rocky Mountains were out there, we sure didn’t see them.  We found Matt and Fred, who soon left to investigate the convention site, while Ginger and I poked around in a Toys R Us.  We didn’t see any good Star Wars toys that we didn’t already have.  There was a big empty spot in the middle of the store.  We both knew what was going to be in that spot by Monday!


&
Oh - maybe all of you  don’t know.  All of the products for the new Star Wars movie went on sale that Monday, May 3rd.  Every store from Toys R Us to Wal-Mart to Target to Joe’s Bait and Tackle was preparing a huge display for The Phantom Monday.

We found the hotel, and checked in.  The four of us went up to our room.  Fred went to sleep, while Matt, Ginger, and I went for food.  Afterwards, Matt took us past the convention site.  Things were looking grim.  The site was much smaller than we had expected, and most of it was to be held outdoors in tents, not under the roof of the nearby Air and Space Museum as we had all expected.  The tents were leaking, and there was mud everywhere.  The life-sized Naboo fighter that had been listed as an item available there for us to gawk at hadn’t arrived, so the convention organizers had quickly amended the program: “See the Naboo Fighter being built in front of your eyes all weekend long!”.  The road back to the hotel took us down Alameda street, which was (of course) quickly renamed Amidala street (after a character in the upcoming movie).

I quoted Han Solo:
“I have a bad feeling about this”.

Matt and Ginger went to sleep, and I went for a short walk before joining them in slumber land.



Click me if'n you want to get right to the long and terrifying tale of the trip home!

Read on if you're a true Star Wars geek!



FRIDAY

Matt and Fred left for the con at about 6AM, as Ginger and I tried to catch up on sleep.  Maikel Das enters the picture at this point.  He came all the way from Germany for the event, but was unable to stay with us, as the room was already over-crowded with four people.  Maikel showed up at our hotel at about 11 AM, and the three of us made the convention scene at about noon.  I found out that the person who had agreed to let me sell Blue Harvest at their dealer's table was now unable to do so, and now my only option was to carry a bunch of them around with me and hope people noticed it and asked me about it.

We waited in a line of cars (in the rain) for quite a while, and were then pleased to find out that the parking was free, and was NOT in a slimy mudhole.  Abandoning the car,  we had to circumnavigate several giant mud zones in the pouring rain, only to end up shivering under the wing of a giant bomber in front of the Air and Space Museum, as we tried to get our bearings.  There were lines everywhere.  Lines to get into each of the tents, into the Museum building, into the porta-potties positioned in the middle of more mud lawns, and at the registration tables (which were outdoors too).  All of the people, in all of the lines, were freezing in the 46 degree rain.  Many were not even lucky enough to have found a shelter as flimsy as the bomber wing afforded us.  It was very unclear where we had to go to register, since there were no signs at all.  Any line we might have chosen meant leaving our B-52 umbrella.

I eventually suffered through the chaos of the three different lines to get our laminated three-day passes, complete with shoestring lanyard and striking red-and-black image of Darth Maul.  Goodie bags were being handed out, but there wasn't much in them.  There were no signs anywhere telling one what was where.  It was all guesswork.  “A” Stage?  “B” Stage?  Main Hall?  Dealer’s Room?  Your guess is as good as mine.  The only signs put up, anywhere, all weekend, were reminders that video taping was forbidden.   This didn’t stop many people who had intrepidly smuggled cameras past the tiny and inadequate convention staff.  If any of you heroes want to make me copies...

We then decided to hit the dealer’s room, because it was the only tent with no line.  So we toured the very, very, small dealer’s room.  A sandbag was strategically placed right in the middle of the doorway, so that most of the people trying to get inside (and out of the rain... sort of...) tripped onto the green plastic carpet that unsuccessfully attempted to keep the water and mud from making the dealers room into a big puddle.  The tent was leaking, and most of the dealers were in a really bad mood, because their merchandise was getting wet.

I heard one guy lament to a dealer: “Well, I’d like to buy this (poster), but it would be ruined as soon as I stepped out of this tent, if not sooner”.  Matt and his dad were standing in an inch of water, and were moving Matt’s art work around so as to keep it from getting dripped on.  We were all astounded at the lack of organization, planning, and communication that was taking place.  The dealers were all obviously trying to ensure that their $500 was well spent: the prices I saw were, on the average, triple the going rate for any given item.  I bought a book and some replacement weapons for some of my vintage action figures.  Then I  took a picture of Maikel near a literal river of muddy water that was flowing freely in a three-foot wide ribbon down the side of the room.  Shortly thereafter, my camera decided it was too humid to trigger the attached flash unit, and gave up flashing.  Fortunately, I had a spare, but I would much rather have covered the event with my high quality Yashika (with 110mm zoom to 25mm wide angle lens), than the little instamatic I had brought as a backup.

We decided to line up to see a show in the “A” tent.  We could hear the people inside cheering, we could hear SW music blaring from the PA, and we could hear the tiniest snippets of what was being said inside the mysterious and inviting tent.  After an hour in line, we learned that it would be 45 more minutes before the next show.  Ginger gave up.  She took a cab back to the hotel, leaving Maikel and I in line.  After freezing a while longer, we decided that the line for the Main Exhibition Hall (in the actual Museum) was a little shorter, and was actually moving, so we jumped into that one.

I had 1000 copies of the preview issue of BH to hand out, so I decided that I’d give the people in line something to read.  I started at the back, and handed one to each person or group in the line.  Next thing I knew, I was in the front of the line, and  I had made everyone waiting happy, as they now had something more substantial to read than the crappy excuse for a convention program they received when registering.  Hmmmm...

Inside the Main Hall were more crowds.  At least it was dry!  After about an hour or two of walking around in wet clothes, I was dry too, if no longer the dashing figure I had left the hotel as.  I visited our good friends at the Decipher area, where they were premiering their new game, Young Jedi.  This game is completely different from the normal CCG (customizable card game), and is aimed at slightly younger players.  Decipher was handing out free starter decks, and had a dozen tables set up with staff for teaching the game to anyone interested.

Del Rey were there, and I got the skinny on their plans for the future of Star Wars fiction.  They have a five-year story arc planned out that will deal with a new order of Jedi.  It begins shortly after Vision of the Future, or about 20 years after Return of the Jedi.  All of the books will be written in order, to help alleviate some of the continuity errors that cropped up with Bantam’s policy of publishing their stories out of order.  I also pointed out that this would give the authors more of a chance for character development, something sorely lacking in Bantam’s novels.  I always thought that the static nature of Luke, Han, Leia and co. was due to a Lucasfilm policy, but the Del Rey rep told me that it was more due to the fact that the Bantam books were written out of order than anything else.

Williams had their new Star Wars pinball machine on display.  This thing kicks big bantha booty.  Go play it!  If you are a video gamer though, you missed a real treat.  Lucasarts had a dozen stations set up where one could play a variety of the new SW video games, both home and arcade versions.  I also noticed a sort of vintage arcade, with the SW and ROJ arcade games, and both of the older SW pinball machines (1992 and 1997 models).  There was also an ESB arcade game that I had never seen before.  The graphics were of the vector-type (like the original SW arcade game, or like Tempest, Battlezone, or Asteroids), and the controls were the same, but in this version you are flying across Hoth, shooting at AT-ATs.  Is this a game that was scrapped in development, or did I just miss it completely back in the day?

There was a life-sized X-wing on display, Anakin’s Pod Racer (just the Pod, no engines), the new C-3PO (that is to say, the old C-3PO, or the new model of C-3PO as he was when he was old and newly rebuilt by Anakin), and some other props.  Flash photography was forbidden in the dim light of the museum, of course.  But do you think that stopped anyone?  These people were wet, cold, angry, and felt gypped.  Anyone enforcing the no-flash rule was likely to get a mouth full of fist.

Topps were there, and if one wanted to, one could flip through one of two notebooks containing the entire series of Phantom Menace widevision trading cards.  I declined.  So far, there was very little unavoidable  spoilerism here.  However, anyone who wanted to know anything about TPM merely had to wander over to the Del Rey table, and read through the novel, the storybook, the Making Of TPM, the Art Of TPM, or any of a dozen other tomes.  I declined to do so, once again.

Dark Horse were there, Hallmark, Scholastic, Lego, Hasbro, and many other major Lucasfilm Licensees.  All were showing their products for your careful examination, but none were selling anything.  It was not allowed.  To buy this stuff, you couldn’t go to the main dealer’s room, you had to go the THE STORE.

THE STORE was a three hour wait.  THE STORE was mythical.  THE STORE required more of a commitment than getting to Denver in the first place.  THE STORE contained all of the TPM merch you might want, at inflated prices, before it was available elsewhere.  THE STORE.  Every con has a legend...

I didn’t bother... on Friday.

Maikel and I met up again and decided to finally wait in line for a show in the “A” stage tent.  Back into the rain, we jogged through the mud and soaked our pant legs only to have to wait outside of the tiny shelter that those in the very front of the line enjoyed.  We were finally admitted in to see Ben Burtt and Rick McCallum in the leaky tent.  Anthony Daniels was to be the MC for this tent all weekend.  After a recorded introduction by James Earl Jones and a blast of music from the PA (very good Apogee PA equipment, BTW, but whoever was running it was deaf at somewhere around 2.5-4 Khz, resulting in their overcompensating certain high frequencies that made the sound very harsh and unpleasant) Daniels took the stage, strutting out Threepio-like in a gold jacket.  He “noticed” an audience member bowing to him in reverence, and he decided that he liked it.  So, he demonstrated the “Ewoks worshipping C-3PO bow”, and insisted we ALL do it.  He ordered the tech staff to reset the music, dim the lights and start over.  Jones’ voice boomed forth once more, the same uncomfortably harsh recording of Star Wars: Main Title blared forth, and Daniels appeared again, this time to the sight of 998 fans bowing in quasi-religious ecstasy (Maikel and I didn't participate).  We were then treated to a short film, “A Day in the life of Episode I”, which showed the cast and crew goofing off on the set.  Highlight: George Lucas riding a golf cart with two Twi’lek (Bib Fortuna’s race) babes.  This was followed by two of the five “tone poems” currently airing on TV.  These are 30-second spots featuring a major character performing a voice-over that does NOT appear in the film.  Sort of little character studies, and much more innovative than a third standard trailer would have been.

Daniels then stroked his own ego a bit more before introducing one of my personal heroes, the single person associated with the SW trilogy who has had the biggest affect on my career, Mr. Ben Burtt.  Ben spoke for a while about doing sound effects for all four SW films (man it sounds weird to say FOUR SW films!).  It was fairly interesting, but he didn’t dish out much that I hadn’t heard before.  There was Q and A afterwards, and as would become the norm for the weekend, most of the questions were pretty inane.  Anytime someone asked a question that contained spoiler material (or plot information about the new film), 90% of the crowd would drown it out with a sustained baritone “Nooooooo!!!!”.  This was to became a common sound all weekend - most of the people don’t want to know!

After Burtt spoke, Rick McCallum took the stage to thunderous applause.  He announced that the final three special effects shots had been completed the previous day, and that the film is now DONE.  Of course, this news brought the house down!  His best quote: “It’s fucking unbelievable!”.   Big news: The classic trilogy will appear on DVD next year, with “some great stuff on it” (I assume he means stuff in addition to the films! (NOTE: it seems as though McCallum was misinformed.  These discs didn't show up until 2004!).

Maikel and I then went back to the hotel.  Matt and Fred arrived at the same time we did, and the four of us found Ginger in the room.  Her friend Pat, a Denver native, came by, as did Jeff Cioletti, who is currently filming a documentary for which I was interviewed about six months ago.  He interviewed Ginger, Maikel, Pat, and Fred.  Matt had left to go to a licensee party, but arrived home fairly early, complaining about corporate greed.  We all sat around the room talking Star Wars, and this evening was perhaps more fun than any official aspect of the convention.  We had a little bit of beer and whisky, but no one was drunk.  We all hit the road for some food, sans Fred and Matt, around midnight.  The conversation continued to rock while we ate a midnight dinner.  Pat then drove Maikel to his hotel, while Ginger and I drove Jeff to his place, getting horribly lost on the way.  By the time we got there, I was exhausted, and we barely made it back.  I gratefully passed out by 2:00.

SATURDAY

Once again, Matt and Fred left early to set up shop, while Ginger and I planned to hit the con by noon.  Ginger was in a better mood, and had borrowed cold weather wear from Pat, but I still had the same thin jacket and my nicer shoes, as opposed to the boots I wear most of the time.  Bad call for me on the wardrobe packing tip.  Parking this time was a half-mile away from the con, and we were soaked before we even got to the leaky tents.

We spent the day in much the same way as Friday, walking the main room, listening to the dork at the Pepsi display continually mispronounce SW-related nouns (did you know that Hoth rhymes with 'both'?), and freezing while waiting in line for events.  We found the video screening room, where four one-hour videos played continually, in rotation.  There was some great stuff there, such as “Troops”, SNL skits, vintage toy commercials, and original screen tests for Mark Hamill, Harrison Ford, and Carrie Fisher.  The screen tests were very interesting because there was a lot of dialogue used in the tests that was later changed or deleted.  It was almost like reading the 2nd or 3rd draft of the script (the 4th made it to the final film), but in this case, Ford and Fisher were acting it out for us right on the screen.  Very cool.

I handed out more copies of the free Blue Harvest Episode 16.5, and whenever I got tired of smiling and telling people very quickly what it was, I remembered the last quote from the trailer for The Phantom Menace: Darth Sidious, in his slow and evil drawl instructing Darth Maul to “Wipe them out... all of them!”.  In my twisted mind, with 1000 Blue Harvests in hand, I kept hearing Sidious giving me similar instructions: “Pass them out... all of them!”.   And that I did!

We caught John Morton (who played Luke’s gunner Dack in The Empire Stikes Back), giving his talk on the “B” Stage.  He was personable enough, but it did stand out sorely that none of the more visible SW actors who are continually making appearances at comic book and SF cons were present at this one - Jeremy Bulloch, Peter Mayhew, Dave Prowse, Kenny Baker, etc.  I’ve even seen Mark Hamill make an appearance or two - you’d think this would’ve been one of the occasions on which they dragged him out of cartoonland to yap at his fans.  As a matter of fact, Morton was the only Classic Trilogy actor to show up, out of the dozen or so who usually work the con circuit.  Well, Warwick Davis was there too, but he was being featured as an Episode I actor, having played no less than three roles in The Phantom Menace.

The whole wet and rainy weekend was starting to feel like a big commercial for The Phantom Menace, rather than the “by the fans, for the fans” “celebration” that had been hyped.  There was very little attention paid to the Classic Trilogy.  All of the banners that hung next to Stages A and B were The Phantom Menace-related, as were the skimpy program booklets and all of the other decor.  If The Phantom Menace and even Episodes II and III are to feel like parts of an overall 6-part sextet, this segregation has to stop NOW.  One would think there WAS NO Classic Trilogy based on what was happening at the con... at least on an official level.  Luke, Han, Leia, and Chewbacca were all completely absent from any “official” decor, merchandise, or advertising.

The fans were in costume, as can be expected, and there were some exceptionally well done ones.  Several Boba Fetts were walking the floor, one in a nearly perfect outfit, and another toting a boom box blaring awful home-made techno music.  Boba Fresh?  Most of Rogue Squadron was there - rebel pilot costumes must be easy to make.  I saw Stormtroopers, several Vaders, plenty of Jedi, and even a girl who had the guts to wear a Princess Leia costume (yes, the 'metal bikini' one!).  She was hanging out with a guy dressed in Hoth attire.  Another brave young woman showed up as a Twi’lek dancer.  Four Tusken Raiders had great outfits, and the guy in the Chewbacca suit was actually on stilts!  Two Klingons looked a little lost.  A beanpole Han Solo hung out with a chubby Lando, making the pair look more like Laurel and Hardy.  A trio of Imperial officers paraded around proudly, but one of them needed to lose his glasses to really look convincing.  A squadron of Snowtroopers menaced the crowd too.  The clear winner however, in terms of sheer repetitiveness, was Darth Maul.  I must have seen six or eight Mauls there, one of whom was so authentically dressed that I naively asked if he was indeed Ray Park.  His answer: "I wish!".

Speaking of Park, we caught his talk in the “B” stage, but he was unable to do his martial arts exhibition there.  For that we would have to catch him again in the “A” Stage later on.  Ray was a good looking young guy (24) who was absolutely thrilled to be there.  He seemed genuinely overwhelmed at the attention he was getting, and really appeared to be having the time of his life.  When he demonstrated the evil glare of Maul, the crowd went nuts.  The women in the audience were... well let’s just say that most of them are hoping Park gets some roles that don’t nescessitate all of the make up that Darth Maul requires.

Something that I found a little nauseating was the sheer number of people who stood in the question line, wasting everyone else’s time, just to tell Park (and to a lesser extent, Ahmed Best) how wonderful they were, and how Darth Maul (or Jar Jar Binks) was their favorite character in The Phantom Menace already.  Most of these morons didn’t even ask a question, or if they did, it was something completely inane like “How does it feel to know George Lucas?”.

The part that was most disturbing though, was the simple fact that none of these people had seen the film yet.  They were drooling all over Park and telling him how great he (and/or his character) is, based on photographs and exactly two lines of dialogue in the trailers.  I am undecided as to whether this is evidence of an extraordinary performance on Park's part, or (more likely) something far more mortifying.  Can all of these people be so shallow that they are prepared to prostrate themselves in front of a 24-year-old kid based on the fact that he gets to wear a cool costume and knows some kung fu?  We know absolutely nothing about Park’s performance or the character of Darth Maul.  Park doesn’t even do Maul’s voice in the film.  No one has seen the guy in action for more than 10 seconds of trailer footage, and we already have grown-ups telling this guy that they worship him.  Geez, people, at least see the movie before you embarrass yourselves in this manner!

Ginger went to see Jake Lloyd speak, while I went to hang out with Matt and Fred a little.  I ran into Maikel, and he and I dragged Matt into the “A” stage to see the other Ray Park show.  After suffering through Anthony Daniels pulling the same tiresome “Ewok worship stunt” that he had been pulling before every show all weekend, we got to see a video on the costume designs for The Phantom Menace, and then Ray came out again.  The undisputed star of the weekend, Ray is fast becoming a favorite among fans.  He answered essentially the same questions as he had answered a few hours earlier in the “B” Stage, but this time he was able to do a short martial arts demo.  To the sound of some great Japanese music, he leaped and flipped and jumped around the stage with a big sword in his hand.  Rick McCallum waited in the wings, like a proud father.

After telling us AGAIN how great Anthony Daniels is, Anthony Daniels introduced both The Phantom Menace trailers, back to back.  Then they treated us to the world premiere of the video for “Duel of the Fates”, the section of John Williams’ score that has been used to make a music video.  The video was basically the same footage as the two trailers, but with two very spectacular and memorable new shots added in.  Additionally, it shows more behind the scenes footage, and shots of Williams conducting.

Ginger reported that Jake Lloyd’s show consisted of little more than Jake and Daniels exchanging insults, followed by Jake’s mom reprimanding him.

Maikel, Ginger, Fred, Matt and I went back to the hotel after getting some food.  We ate in one of those tacky diners, loosely styled after the 1950’s.  I had to explain to Maikel that the place was sort of a caricature, sort of an exaggeration of what people who were born in the 1970’s remember the 1950’s as being like.  It was all neon and chrome, with James Dean and Marylin Monroe posters on the wall.  People who are seriously into retro culture would gag at an embarrassment like this place.  Also, the waiter was awful, and on top of that, the kitchen took 45 minutes to get our food out.  They gave it to us for free.  At that news, Matt magnanimously offered to buy us all dinner, and with a grin, he left the $5 tip and thanked the manager for the freebie.

Jeff had called to tell us that Dave (Darth Vader) Prowse was in town, doing a private signing, not affiliated with the con.  This led to further speculation as to why no actors from the Classic Trilogy were present (aside from ol’ Dack, and Daniels, of course).  Here’s one theory, but it only explains half of this oversight:  At a normal SF or comic con, you have your SW fans, your Marvel Comics fans, your Star Trek fans, etc.  Any actor or author or artist who may show up is going to get a certain percentage of the crowd who are interested in meeting them and/or getting an autograph. But no one single convention guest at a nromal convetion is going to be interesting to all of the attendees.  In this case, however, 100% of the crowd of up to 25,000 people per day are Star Wars fans (except for the two lost Klingons).  Therefore, if one of the guests were to do a signing, the line would be insane, and the guest would end up with carpal tunnel syndrome from trying to handle all of those autographs all damned day long.  So it was simply unfeasible to do standard con-style autograph lines at this particular con.  Fine, I can understand that.  There were enough lines, in the rain, as it was!  But why exclude the entire Men Behind the Masks posse altogether?  Think of the long list of talent from the SW films who regularly do cons all over the country (under the name ‘Men Behind the Masks’) : Dave Prowse, Jeremy Bulloch, Peter Mayhew, Kenny Baker.  Plus less-known but no less welcome Trilogy thespians such as: Kenneth Colley, Caroline Blakiston, Maria D’Aragon, Phil Brown, Hal Wamsley, Femi Taylor, John Hollis, Mike Carter, and all the rest. Fine, don’t let them do their normal autograph routine.  But I still would like to have seen them on stage along with the six or eight Episode I actors who made the scene.  What gives?  Further reinforcement of the theory that the con was a big commercial for The Phantom Menace?

Anyway, we also wanted to check out Ahmed (Jar Jar Binks) Best’s band, who were performing that night.  So we hauled like Maul over to the signing hall, where the line to meet Prowse was insanely long.  Thus, with one element of my previous paragraph demonstrated to be true, we briefly debated whether or not to wait.  I have met Dave Prowse on several occasions dating as far back as 1983, so I didn’t care if we left.  Ginger, on the other hand, is a HUGE Vader fan who has never met the man.  She wanted to stay.  Maikel broke the tie when he said “let’s fly”.  So we boogied on over to where Best was playing, but we missed the gig - people were filing out just as we arrived.  Strike Two.  I had been to a really fun bar last time I was in Denver, while on tour with a certain band.  We decided to try to find it, and eventually we did.  The place was not so fun this time - there were no seats and the band were out of tune and too loud.  We walked half a block and settled in to a lame sports bar where we finally were able to relax after spending the past few hours running all over Denver in an unfruitful search for fun.

SUNDAY

We didn’t see Maikel again after we dropped him off Saturday night.  He had to catch a plane first thing in the morning.  Ginger’s plane was due out by 2:00, so after a quick trip to the con to get in line at THE STORE, I ran her back to the hotel and her rendezvous with the airport shuttle.  Back to wandering around the con after that, I got kind of bored.  I ran into Jeff Cioletti, and we hung out for a while, watched the idiot at the Pepsi booth ramble on over his mic, and sold some BH issues.  The weather had finally cleared up, and the “C” Stage which had been completely canceled on Friday and Saturday was open.  There was a guy talking about Jawa collectibles.  I decided that I hadn’t seen enough of the major shows all weekend, so I caught Terry Brooks with RA Salvatore, Hugh Quarshie, and Ahmed Best all in a row, all on the relatively easy to get into “B” Stage.  I didn’t bother with the “A” Stage again all day - I had seen Tony Daniels pull his repetitive gags enough times already.  The MC of the “B” Stage, Scott Chernoff, was almost as tiresome, continually trying to salvage morale for the weekend by telling us (in reference to both the crowds and the mud) that this was “our Woodstock”.  Well Scott, YOU didn’t have to wait in any of the lines, did you?

Brooks and Salvatore (a new country band?) were entertaining as they talked about their respective novels.  Brooks probably fielded more questions about his Episode I novelization than Salvatore did about his upcoming novel (Vector Prime, the first of Del Rey’s new Expanded Universe entries).  Brooks was well-spoken and came off as intelligent and witty, while Salvatore’s rough demeanor and New York accent made him seem like an Oscar Madison to Brooks’ Felix Unger.  Don’t get me wrong though - Salvatore was just as funny, and just as interesting, it’s just that the two authors had very different personalities, and perhaps that is what made their talk more enjoyable.  They also seemed completely nonplused by Jake Lloyd running through the room while they were speaking, followed by a huge entourage that paraded around the con behind him like rats behind the Pied Piper.  Little Lloyd scooted around, secure in his stardom and enjoying every second of it, followed by a half dozen other kids.  Behind them were Lloyd’s tired parents, and bringing up the rear were a group of other adults who seemed exhausted, bored, and not at all happy to be there.  In feathered hair, day-glo sunglasses, and huge white puffy sports shoes, I expected this branch of the family to have the bitchin’ Camaro parked outside.  Obviously the Appalachian branch of the Lloyd clan.  This was also where I ran into Chris from Cinescape; he and I had met while being interviewed by Jeff Cioletti in Chicago a few months earlier.

Hugh Quarshie was surprisingly interesting.  Having played a character who’s action figure didn’t even make the initial wave of 18, you’d think a forum with the actor behind Captain Panaka might not be very exciting.  Quarshie was a pleasant surprise, however.  Speaking softly in a British accent, he was extremely intelligent, and managed to say some things other than the tired reiterations of the The Phantom Menace press releases we had suffered through all weekend.  He had some refreshingly individualistic opinions, which he was not afraid to express.  Maybe we should get him to write for Blue Harvest!  An experienced stage actor, he spoke of exactly why Shakespeare stinks.  He was even bold enough to mention in passing that “the failure of modern religion is so disappointing” and how George Lucas’s fables and the teachings of Jospeh Campbell are an important replacement, in that they help people come together and give us role models.  He also had a few things to say about Ahmed Best - it appears that there is a tongue-in-cheek rivalry building between the two.  According to Quarshie, Best can’t spell “philosophy”, and there is speculation as to whether “Best” is his real surname.  These two statements, and others, were made in jest.  That didn’t stop Best from commenting on them though.

Ahmed Best may be as different from Hugh Quarshie as RA Salvatore is from Terry Brooks.  Perhaps more so - I’d say that my Odd Couple analogy is even better suited to this pair of African actors than to the writers mentioned earlier.  Slouched in his chair and speaking in an abrupt inner city manner, Ahmed Best was most certainly a product of the large American city.  Gesturing wildly with hands that seemed to want to gravitate towards his belt buckle, he was uncouth, rude, and funny as hell.  He had very little compunctions about soliciting romance from female audience members, and had plenty of stories to tell about walking around the TPM set with “a duck on his head” (the Jar Jar mask).  Fielding a question from the audience about his spelling abilities, the crass and comical Gungan demanded that Quarshie be brought to the stage.  Presently, Hugh’s taunting voice came over the PA, and after driving Best nuts in trying to locate the body behind the voice, Quarshie took the stage.  The two exchanged banter, a repartee of Quarshie’s English wit vs. Best’s coarse comebacks, before a touching reconciliation and a brotherly hug ended the battle between cinematic allies.

Asked about Jar Jar’s voice, Best was unable to perform any quotes from the film, except for the one line that appears in the trailer.  His “Yousa people gonna die...?” received almost the same applause that Ray Park’s evil glare had solicited on Saturday.  He was able to tell us that the scene in which he spoke that line was the first one he filmed.  He was then persuaded to speak some lines from the Classic Trilogy in Jar Jar’s voice.  Frankly, Jar Jar doing Yoda isn’t that different from Yoda doing Yoda.  Best was hilarious in telling us how he used the old “Jedi Mind Trick” to convince George Lucas to let him be Jar Jar’s voice as well as his stand-in.  Yes, I guess that’s all Best is - a stand-in for a digital creation.  So it is good that Best was allowed to do Jar Jar’s voice, after designing so much of the performance and movement style that was eventually replaced by computer graphics.  Hungry to bum rush the stage for autographs, a crowd was forming in the aisles.  Chernoff had to insist that Best sign no autographs, and the crowd dispersed.  I wandered out to the “C” Stage (in the middle of a parking lot), and listened to Warwick Davis for a few moments.

I went to inspect the progress of the Lego Naboo fighter in the Lego tent.  It was unfinished, and the guys who had been working on it had apparently given up at the 11th hour.  They were no where in sight.  Here's a pic of them working their behinds off on Saturday.

Then I helped Matt and Fred pack up a little, and talked with no less than two other artists -  Jeffrey Carlisle and James Cukr - about their great work.  Jeffrey is an illustrator who’s rendering of Yoda and Obi Wan sparring was most impressive, done in the style of an ancient Japanese screen print, complete with columns of lettering on the corners, done in the “Jedi Symbol Font”.  Cukr’s bounty hunters painting appeared in SW Insider #42.  His rendering of AT-AT’s and a dewback (manned by a biker scout) marching across Tatooine was one of the most striking new SW paintings I’ve seen in years.  Finally, it was time to go.  I had checked out of the hotel that morning, and Matt had paid me for his share, as had Ginger.  I ended up giving Matt’s share back to him in exchange for some of his art, a rendering of Princess Leia in a foxy grey spacesuit that was used on the cover of Snowfire magazine, a fan fiction ‘zine published by my Blue Harvest co-publisher, Mary Jo.

Some of the Force.net guys were hanging out with Matt too, so I finally got to meet some of the fellas who so graciously put a link to Blue Harvest up on the #1 SW web page.

And now there was nothing to do but hit the road.  I saw Anthony Daniels in the parking lot, and as his bodyguard escorted him away from a throng of fans, I put a copy of Blue Harvest in his hands.  Not the mini-issue, but the real deal.  Over the weekend, I had also handed copies of the latest issue to Terry Brooks, Hugh Quarshie, RA Salvatore, John Morton, Ray Park, Scott Chernoff, Rick McCallum, and various licensees.

So before I hit the road - and let me tell you , you’re only halfway done reading this thing - let me mention THE STORE.  THE STORE is my most incriminating evidence that this event was not held as a place for fans to meet and have a good time so much as it was an excuse for all of the licensees and the Fan Club to get together and sell us The Phantom Menace stuff.  On Friday, the line for THE STORE snaked around and through the main convention hall, through Star Wars exhibits and under the WWII bombers that live there in the Museum permanently.  Finding the back of the line was a challenge, and getting to the front was more so.  I worked the line on Friday, handing out BH freebies, and dug up some dirt.  Essentially, THE STORE was to sell The Phantom Menace merchandise before it went on sale to the public.  Now, keep in mind that all The Phantom Menace merch was to be available on Monday, May 3rd, only a day or two later.  But these people couldn’t wait.  You’d think that THE STORE was the only reason they came to Denver.  By Saturday, THE STORE had opened up a franchise in the main Dealer’s room.  The wet floor and the mud river didn’t stop yet another line from forming to give people a crack at getting  most of  what was available in the main store.  Of course, the four best items - three of the new action figures, a “pod Racer” jacket, a Darth Maul Jacket, and the new The Phantom Menace Legos - were NOT available in the Dealer’s Room sub-store.  However, the souvenir posters, hats, and pins were, as well as the limited edition $85 version of the novel.  Terry Brooks, by the way, had shown distaste on two occasions during his lecture at the high price tag for a $25 book in a slipcase with his autograph.  You could also get a “Big Little Book” that would effectively spoil the whole film if you were to read it, and a few other goodies at the sub-store.  I bought the poster, Ginger got the book, Maikel got a whole bag full o’ stuff to take back to Germany.  One could also buy a $20 CD of Anthony Daniels telling anecdotes about his adventures while playing C-3PO in the Classic Trilogy.

Anyway, by Saturday, the geniuses who were running the show decided that the way to take care of the line problem inside the Museum was to move the line outside.  So now the three-hour wait was a three-hour wait in the rain.  That didn’t stop the shoppers!  As I hopped over a huge puddle near the line on my way somewhere else, I muttered somewthing about "Slimy Mudhole", and got a laugh out of a section of the intrepid shoppers.  It was probably the only time anyone smiled all weekend.

By Sunday, late afternoon, the wait was down to about 1/2 hour, but some of the stuff was sold out (like the Darth Maul jacket).  I handed out BH freebies to everyone in the line, and soon made it into THE STORE.  Two tiny rooms, containing piles of Legos and stacks of action figures at $9 a pop (Wal Mart: $5.74).  I was out of there in less than five minutes.  So here’s the big pun for this report:

What do you call a big evil store that only sells Star Wars stuff?

The Darth Mall, of course!

And now, friends, we hit the road.  If you don’t care about the convention, this is the scary part you’ve been waiting for.

I decided that since I didn’t have to drive anyone home, I would take the scenic route.  With the exception of a quick trip to Cleveland about 2 years ago, I haven’t done a solo road trip in almost 5 years.  I didn’t have time for anything fancy, but I thought if I headed south out of Denver, I could check out a Tiki Bar in Pueblo, then take Route 87 diagonally across the very top corner of New Mexico, and end up in Amarillo, Texas.  Then I would take historic Route 66 back to Chicago, avoiding Interstates and seeing the back roads a little.

Yeah, right.

Driving out of Denver, I was excited for part two of this trip, but I was also sad that the disastrous con was over.  I had a lot of fun hanging out with Maikel, Matt, Fred, Ginger, Jeff, and everyone else.  The event itself was a complete mess, but good times and good friends transcend that.  And now it was done.  The sun had made a brief appearance on Sunday, and as it set, I found myself driving down I-25, parallel to the Rocky Mountains on my right.  I hadn’t even glimpsed the Rockies the whole time I was in Denver, due to the constant heavy cloud cover and the rain.  I was tempted to drive through them, but that was the opposite direction, and I did have to be home by Tuesday night.

Making Pueblo, I found the Tiki Bar, and was disappointed to discover that:
a. It had been turned into a strip club
b. It was closed

So I headed south some more, without further comment.  I was aware that most of the Toys R Us stores, Wal-Marts, and Targets in the US of A and parts of Mississippi  were going to be open at 12:01 AM in order to get a jump on selling The Phantom Menace stuff, which was contractually forbidden to sell until May 3rd.  At 10:50, I passed one of those big momma Wal Mart superstores that are so big they even have a grocery store in them.  Finding it open, I proceeded to the toy section to find  no one there.  Kick Ass!  The Star Wars toy aisle was covered on both ends by a big brown tarp.  There was a girl inside, stocking the last few items.  I peeked behind the plastic, and it was all there, waiting for me.  I got a cart, and declared to nobody in particular that I was first in line.  By 11:30, a kind middle aged man had joined me.  He was from Kansas.  He was very soft spoken, and gentle in demeanor.  He claimed to have all 1500 Little Golden Books, a collection he had started with his daughter.  He also said that he bought “all the heroes”.  I eventually figured out that “hero” was his word for “action figure”, and that he wasn’t so much of a Star Wars fan as an action figure collector in general.

Next was a fat dickhead from Texas and his two inbred sons.  They were there to harvest as much stuff as they could, and resell it at a profit.  They'll buy out the entire stock of a certain item, make sure no one else can get it, and sell their 'exclusive' for way too much cash.  We call these guys scalpers, and they are the reason that my collection is still missing more than a dozen of last year's action figures, and the reason that I felt a need to line up at a Wal-Mart near the Colorado-New Mexico border at midnight on a Sunday to get a jump on them.  I refuse to buy from them.  At least I was ahead of them in line.

And that was it - the lines I had dreaded, the stories I had heard in Denver of people leaving the con early to queue up at Toys R Us, the throngs of scalpers fighting to grab the stuff predicted as being “hot” or in short supply... none of it was there.  After FIVE YEARS of struggling to get each and every new SW figure as it was released, often unsuccessfully, I was being handed a ticket to stride down that aisle and calmly grab the entire new The Phantom Menace collection, the hottest toys in history, at my leisure.  At 12:05, after torturing us for a bit, the manager calmly and very slowly removed the tarp, and with glee, I pushed my cart slowly down the lane, dropping one of each of the 21 new figures into it (well, there are technically eighteen new figures, but four variant versions of the battle droid figure exist.  Yes, I complained about this in Blue Harvest, and yes, I got all four).  I also selected one of each of the new vehicles.  The only thing I didn’t see were the new 12” figures, but I can’t afford to collect those and the lil’ ones too.  Sixteen minutes later, my collection calmly completed, I watched my credit card melt down as the total flashed before my eyes.

Kansas man had selected his favorites and left, and the scalper scum were filling their baskets.  There was a limit of two of each figure per person - but there were three scalper guys shopping.  An easy loophole for these greedy dirtbags. I hit the road.


&

US 87 is a 2-lane black ribbon that connects southern Colorado with Amarillo, TX.  One lane each way, and no posted speed limit.  No towns, no cops, no gas, no nothin’.  Just coyotes, tumbleweeds, and sand.  I didn’t mind driving at night, because there was nothing to see.  I would do my sight seeing on Monday and Tuesday on Route 66.  Or at least that was the plan.  I drove at insane speeds through the night, never needing to turn off my hi-beams for oncoming traffic, because there was none.  The little oval of blacktop that I could see in my headlights sped past at dizzying speed, mesmerizing me.  I could see lots of stars, if I had dared to lok up for more than a few seconds while driving so fast on this narrow and lost highway.  Once or twice a truck sped by going the opposite way.  I had to slow down and veer over to my right, to the very edge of the road.  Still, my car quaked and trembled for a few tense seconds each time an eighteen wheel behemoth hurled past.  By 4:30 AM, I was asleep in the car in a parking lot near Amarillo, clothes hanging over the windows for privacy.  I decided that after buying all those toys, the hotel would have to be cut out of the budget.

I have my priorities.

MONDAY

I got a book showing maps of where Route 66 used to be, which sections of it still exist, and which roads I should take to simulate Old 66 on the sections where it is gone.  Just after Amarillo, I started my exploration, and promptly got lost on a wide expanse of dull grey wasteland.  Looking at a map, I saw that there was a good long stretch of 66 that was still well-preserved running between Oklahoma City and Tulsa.  So I got un-lost and headed towards Oklahoma City on the interstate.  It was raining.

I managed to find part of Route 66, and I re-started my exploration of the past.  I saw a lot of dead armadillos, who don’t seem to bleed, they just go flat like an old tire.  I also saw a tortoise truckin’ down the shoulder of the road, but I was going to fast to stop and say hi.  Aside from dead armadillos and a live tortoise, I saw enough road kill to populate possum heaven.  A stiff dog too, it’s legs straight up in the air like in a cartoon.

Driving down an abandoned stretch of highway in nowheresville, north east Oklahoma, I found an old gas station that had been turned into a junk market (Watto's?).  I stopped to check it out, but all of the tables in front of the building were covered with big blue tarps.  There didn’t seem to be anyone around, and the door to get inside was locked.  But, all of the merchandise outside was just sitting there.  I poked though it, but I didn’t find anything interesting.  Still no signs of life, either.  The wind was picking up and was quite noisy, but over the din, I thought I heard someone calling out to me.  The only other building for miles and miles around was a tiny house right across the street from the ex-gas station.  There was a little old lady out in the yard, a blanket clutched to her chest.  She was shouting at me, but I couldn’t hear a word she was saying over the sound of the wind, the odd truck going by, and her German Shepherd doing it’s best to either scare me off, or break it’s tether and kill me.

I got closer and closer, but I still couldn’t hear her.  She was shouting and pointing, and I finally jogged across the street to her fence, but no too close, because old ladies usually tend to be afraid of young men wearing black clothing who stand six foot four.  I didn’t want her to panic and sic Rin Tin Tin on me.  She eventually communicated that there was a bucket that had come loose across the street and was blowing into the road.  I ran back over to the junk shop, secured the crappy old plastic bucket in a pile of old tires, and went back to the old lady.  She started telling me that she had owned the junk shop for 50 years, but that a family had recently taken it over.  They lived in a cabin back in the woods behind the erstwhile service station, and had four daughters.  The daughters, it seemed, were not allowed to leave the premises, and were schooled by the parents.  The shop was closed on Mondays, but if I wanted anything, the old lady would gladly make the sale for them.

I’m sure.

Grandma wanted to chat some more, and kept asking me if I was a doctor, with the blanket clutched to her chest the whole time, the dog barking, and the wind blowing.  She wanted me to see her flower garden behind the house, but I couldn’t come through the front gate because it was locked.  I noticed an ancient chain wrapped around the latch, rusted to the point that the links were all one solid piece.  Either she had a back way in, or she hadn’t left the premises in decades.  I told her I could see her flowers just fine from the road, and craned my neck around a bit to illustrate that I was interested, and that yes, I could see them.  This was becoming very much like a scene in a David Lynch move, so I decided to reboot my reality and get the funky monkey out of there.

Good thing I didn’t stay for tea, as you will soon discover.  Continuing east, I found another tortoise at the side of the road.  It had two big cracks in it’s shell, it was bleeding, and it had ants already crawling into it’s shell to feast on it’s remains.  It had all of it's limbs pulled into it’s ruined carapace, still alive, peeking out at me and very scared.  I moved it off of the shoulder it into some rocks and water a few yard off the road, to die decently.  Drowning, the ants abandoned ship.  I questioned myself: Why do I pass dozens and dozens of mamillian road pizzas without a thought, but get so choked up when I see a reptile in need?  Hand me that field guide to native mammals.  I’ve seen every species in it, at the side of the road, all dead, in the past 24 hours.  Birds too.  Who cares?  It’s part of travelling the road.  But the tortoise had me bummed out.  Poor thing.

I came across another town as the sky grew grey.  There was a Chinese restaurant that advertised “Tropical Drinks” on it’s sign, and since that is often an indication that an old Tiki Bar is hidden inside, I stopped for a peek.  It was just a Chinese Restaurant, but there were a few token Tiki mugs behind the tiny bar, in case anyone might ever want a Tropical Drink.  I didn’t get the idea that many people did.  I got some chicken fried rice for lunch and moved on.

I bought some old 1950’s movie and fashion magazines $0.50 each at an antique mall on 66, then lost the Route again.  The Route 66 book I had bought earlier that day was a little unclear, and it was designed for the westward traveler.  I had to translate all of the directions into an eastward configuration, and it often got confusing.  The rain pouring down didn't help much either.  Getting frustrated, I saw an even longer stretch of old 66 going through most of Missouri.  A friend in Chicago had told me that 66 through Missouri was the best part of 66.   So I got onto the Interstate, planning to pick up Old 66 in Missouri and skip Oklahoma, just as the rain picked up some more.  As I headed northeast on I-44, the rain steadily increased, until it was almost impossible to drive.  Then I saw the tornado.

Yes, THAT tornado.

Well, friends, I am still here to write this, but let’s just say that it was a close one.  I saw that damned thing in my rear view mirror, and had one thought:  GAS.  And lots of it.  Pedal to the metal, I studiously ignored everything I have ever heard about the art of driving in a tornado, which is to get out of the car under a bridge and lay down with your hands over your head.  “Fuck that", I thought.  "I am getting OUT OF HERE”.  If I am going to die, it is not going to happen while laying in the mud next to a freeway in Oklahoma while some fucking tornado blows my ass straight to Oz.  Having just spend three days with a bunch of people who quote Yoda all day long, I was well versed in Jedi philosophy. 
"Do or Do Not". 
I did.

Wipers on "full" did absolutely nothing to help clear away the deluge I was driving under. I couldn't see a thing.   The sky wasn't the deep grey one might expect, but rather it was a sickly bruised color.  Under other circumstances, I might have found it fascinating.  I drove as fast as I felt I was able to go while still maintaining control of the car, and then I went just a little faster.  Fortunately, the weather was moving in a direction perpendicular to the direction which I was driving, and I therefore watched it go from left to right across my tail as it also receded into the distance due to my foolhardy velocity.  The wind and rain were intense, but the twister was several miles away.  I was hardly in the worst part, but it still scared the shite out of me.  Eventually, I left it behind me.

Arriving in Joplin, Missouri, I found a $19 hotel room.  It had no phone (whadda ya expect for $19), but it did have free cable.  The average American traveler obviously has priorities.  It was 9:00 PM, and I was not in the mood to sit in the hotel.  Normally, I would drive until at least midnight, or later, but I was a little shaky due to the weather, and I also didn’t want the spectacular retroness of Missouri 66 to fly by at night. I wanted to drive it the next day.  Unfortunately Joplin isn’t very big, so there was no where to eat other than fast food.  All of the bars in Missouri close on Sunday and Monday, so my only option was to hang out at a bowling alley.  I drank shitty beers for $2 each and talked to some of the local kids, who were almost as boring as those kids way back in Omaha.  It started raining again.  No, it started monsooning again.

Midnight and closing time rolled around, and half shitfaced, I had to get back to the hotel in the deluge that was giving me flashbacks from that afternoon.  I stopped at a 7-11 to get a sandwich, and these two girls were buying lottery tickets.  For some reason, I told them that they ought to buy me one, and they did!  But, they told me that if I won, I would have to split the money with them.  As it turns out, I won $10.  But, the cashier wasn’t allowed to pay me at that hour.  Not even a piddly tenner.  So I went to the girl's car, and made their boyfriends give me $5.  They resisted, even after I explained things to them.  I gave them the ticket and told them they could cash it in the next day for their $10.  They still didn't get it.  One of the dames finally coughed up a lincoln, and I forked over my winner and went back inside.  Then I bought my sandwich, just as a big fat guy with a big fat wife and two fat kids in a mini van pulled up and ran inside, instantly soaked in the downpour.

The guy was half hysterical, and shouted “It’s coming this way!  They said on TV to evacuate!”.  I looked a the cashier, and knowing the answer, I asked what was coming this way.  He said: “The tornado that killed 50 people in Oklahoma City today!”.  Well, that was the first I had heard about how big and bad this thing was.  I had never been in a tornado before, and I had no idea that my first one was like the 2nd biggest ever.  F5?  Isn't that a photography term?  I had no way to judge how far away it had been from me that afternoon, but apparently it had been further away than I thought.  Good!

So I want back to my hotel.  What else could I do?  Outrun this thing again, and in the dark?  I didn’t even know which way to go.  For all I knew, I'd be driving right into it this time.  The drive to the motel was short, but intense.  Stoplights weren’t working, cops were rushing about in all directions, trees were bent over 45 degrees in the gale.  I made the hotel, parked the car in the little mini-garage next to my room, and went inside.  I stood in the doorway watching the chaos, almost enjoying the terror.  The TV behind me was showing death and destruction in the town I had consumed lunch in that afternoon, just as the announcer was urging people to evacuate the town I was in at the moment.

What could I do?  I went to sleep in the world’s shittiest hotel room.  I looked at the 1970’s pinstriped wall paper contrasting the once gold and now grey carpet, cigarette burns and beer stains providing texture.  The bed cover was another color again.  The lack of a phone, and the mirror on the wall across from the bed gave me a clue as to the normal clientele here.  If this was to be the end, then so be it.

I wondered if my trunk was leaking.  Can’t have the toys getting wet...

TUESDAY

The first thing I noticed when I woke up at 10:00 on Tuesday was that I had indeed woke up.  That meant that I was alive.  I looked in the mirror.  Unfortunately, the mirror was designed to be viewed by people laying in the bed, so I was only able to see mid-belly and below.  Everything important was still there, and I assumed my head was still on too.  I looked outside at the car, and it seemed unscathed.

“Oh good”, I thought.  “I’m not dead”.

I showered(!), dressed, and hit the road.

I found 66 near Springfield, and followed it for a while into the depths of Missouri, or ‘misery’, as I had taken to thinking of the Show Me State.

I found an old diner that had been abandoned many years before.  Sometimes the ruins on a trip like this are as fascinating as the elements of the past that have been successfully preserved.  This diner was built at the height of the atomic era, and had atoms and rocketships painted on the sides of the building.  All of the windows and doors were gone, and the gas pumps had long ago been dismantled.  I went inside.  It was creepy as hell.  I found four old postcards on the floor that had almost certainly been laying there for 40 years.  There was also a lot of other crap, which I left undisturbed for the archaeologists of the future.

Back at the car, I noticed that my right front tire was in critical condition.  The steel belting was poking through the rubber, and an entire layer of rubber was missing completely from about 1/4 of the tire.  I guess when one is outrunning a tornado, they don’t notice their tires going bad.  I could have had a blowout at any moment, I realized.  I was lucky to have come this far without losing the tire.  It was not as if I was in a well populated area - I had chosen the backroads of 66 on purpose, and I hadn’t seen a town for an hour or so!  The rain picking up yet again, I got back onto I-44, intent on finding a service station who could sell me a tire.

I soon found a garage. Being only 2:30 PM, they were still open.  If this had happened on US87 hauling ass through Texas on Sunday night, I would have been completely fucked.  The friendly middle aged man who looked like the actor Brian Denehey and his hillbilly helper  (whom I dubbed “Mongo”) were quick to help.  They had just taken over this station three days earlier, and were eager for business.  The owner’s wife was trying to get the other half of the building, a restaurant, in order.  Mongo poked through their tire inventory for half an hour trying to find my size.  Finally he found one that was close enough, but a little wider than my dead old tire.  It would do the trick though.  On being quoted $28 for the tire, I decided to buy two, as my other front tire was pretty bad too.  As an afterthought, I told them to do an alignment for $29.95, as my lack of alignment is probably what killed my old tires so thoroughly and so quickly.  So I was looking at bout $86 plus tax.  Acceptable indeed for two tires and an alignment.  They got right to work.

I sat in a booth in the unfinished restaurant.  I helped myself to a beverage.  I sat staring at the rain for hours.  The afternoon was waning, and I was in the middle of Missouri.  I had to be in Chicago that night, which meant getting back on the Interstate.  I had hardly seen any of 66 at all.  Just a few glimpses, such as the dilapidated Atomic Cafe.  In the booth next to me, a huge black spider slowly crawled out from under the napkin dispenser.  Normally, I would have jumed up in revulsion.  But it was as far away from me as my tired mind was from anything of real importance.  I watched it slowly climb and explore the napkin dispenser.  It was a flat black color, and it looked almost like it was made of stone or hard plastic.  It wasn't hairy.  It was like teflon.  And it was the size of a half-dollar.  It was one creepy sonofagun.  Finally it dissapeared under something.  A sudden bout of arachnophobia sent irrational images into my head of Mr. Spider appearing in my own booth, crawling into all sorts of places much too close to my person, so I evacuated the booth and went to check on the car.

Four hours had passed, the monsoon had fired itself up again, the garage was flooding, Mongo had left and was replaced by Barney Google, and my car wasn’t fixed.  When it was finally declared done, I was asked how much money I had.  They were not yet equipped to take credit cards, I didn’t have a check on me, and the tires had inflated in price just as they were inflated with air a few hours earlier... before the marathon alignment.  I told them I had $139.  They took it.  All of it.  Otherwise, it was tacitly implied, my car could remain on the lift, and I could wander off into the monsoon by my own damned self.  The rain was coming down so hard I couldn’t see the street 25 feet away, and I knew that aside from a(nother) bowling alley about 1/4 mile away, there was no shelter until the next freeway exit... a few miles at least, on foot and in impenetrable rain... and then what?

So I gave them every penny I had, thankful for two credit cards to get me gas and food on the way home.

The tires were the wrong width, which is OK, but I later found them to be the wrong circumference too, so the front end of my car is now a bit higher than the rear.  And the alignment is still a little off.  But I was on the road, on I-44, and doing a good 25 miles per hour under the sea in my submarine.

The rain slowed down, I made time, interstates were the key - no more time for Route 66 or sightseeing.  The garage and the weather had sucked up all of my time.  And my cash.  Now it was about getting home, and fast.  But not too  fast.

Just outside of St. Louis, I was pulled over and awarded a ticket for doing 72 in a 60.  The speed limit all the way across Nebraska, Iowa, Colorado, Texas, Oklahoma, and Misery had been 70 or 75, except while near large cities.  The limit dropped to 60 just south of St. Louis, and I missed the sign, obscured by a truck, or perhaps the miserable rain, or a yuppie in a SUV.  The cop didn't seem to care.  I limped onward.

Mississippi River.  I remember a park on the Illinois side where I stopped to prolong my 1994 road trip.  It flew by unvisited this time.


&

Joliet.  Home of the Blues Brothers, a prison, and not much else.  Stopped for gas an hour from home.  I was pulled over by another cop while coming out of the gas station.  Headlight is out. It worked an hour ago!  I swear!   The officer let me go.  Could he see the past two days in my eyes?

Chicago.

Alive.

Midnight.

We’ll unpack the car tomorrow.


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